Movies and a game of cards

penguineer

just luscious
Sunset panorama from the Spirit of Tasmania

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Cheers!
 

penguineer

just luscious
Day 8 - Penguin town, a bit of a Nut and close to the Edge

It was still dark when the wake-up call sounded throughout the boat, causing a mad scramble as everyone tried to wake up, extricate themselves from their cubbyholes, pack their bags, find coffee and wait for the call to the vehicle decks for unloading.

Once we were called it was worse than yesterday - this time we had to undo the tie-downs holding the bikes in place as well as sort our gear out.
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Also worth remembering to get rid of the rubber band they use to hold the front brake lever - avoids surprises later.

Eventually we get off the boat and stop in the car park for customs - once again all the bikes are shuffled off to the side.

While watching the inspectors scrupulously going through caravans and car boots I dread having to unload the bike and repack, but I needn't have worried. After about 5 minutes one of the customs guys walks towards the bikes and calls out "Anyone got any fruit? Anyone got any fruit? OK - off you go!" and is treated to about 50 bikes tearing through the gate like the start of a grand-prix.......

I didn't get far though as I had to pick up my gas bottle just outside the gate. It was worth it though - the security guard was able to give me directions to a good cafe for coffee and a toastie as well as the gas bottle!

After a bit of a feed and a relaxing coffee it was off on the road - initially I thought south, maybe Cradle Mountain, but changed back to my rough plan which was to make Arthur River for the night. Nice little run along the riverside to Latrobe though, and I found a big platypus at the Axemens Hall of Fame:
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The platypus is a little the worse for wear at the moment - a storm had picked up the platypus and dumped it some distance away, despite all their wierd and wonderful adaptations platypus aren't meant to fly,

Now it's off along the coast, grey skies still threaten, but don't seem to be getting any worse.
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It had to be done - Penguin! The town was named for the little blue penguins that frequent the beaches.

Big Penguin(can't take it with me ;( )
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Even on the rubbish bins:
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Cafe:
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The information centre has lots of penguin souvenirs - this is a personal collection they have on display:
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Then I notice where I'd parked - better move on before anyone gets any funny ideas.....
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For now I just scoot through Burnie - I'll be back later in the trip. Well, I tried to scoot through - a part of a wall fell onto the road in front of me.......

Burnie is undergoing a bit of a change due to the paper mill shutting down - a consequence of the controversy over woodchip production. The old paper mill is one of the first things you see on the way into town and is in the process of being demolished, it gives the impression of a part of Burnie just being ripped out.

Further west - this is the Bass Highway ;)
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The Bass Highway has been like this since leaving Burnie.

A short detour off the highway and I ended up at Table Cape lookout. The wind was blowing fairly hard, causing the mesh floor of the lookout to make noises. With an oxy-torch and a pair of vice grips I reckon you could get it to play tunes.
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Unfortunately there was a fair bit of low cloud, spray and haze, so the view wasn't as good as it could have been.
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Table Cape' other attractions include the lighthouse and the tulip farm - you can see a couple of rows of yellow here, other areas had red and white tulips.
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This place must have a story behind the name(not sure I want to hear it though):
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A little further down the highway I went looking for another side road along the coast - I had to turn around and get back to the highway as the ninja kangaroos can be pretty hardcore(and there was no beach road anyway).
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At Stanley - I did stop at the usual roadside lookout and tried to get a few photos, but they weren't that impressive. There was another lookout at a place called Highfield that gives a different view of Stanley and The Nut(also known as Circular Head).
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Stanley was the major port for the north-west area of Tasmania - the wharf is out of view around the right-hand side of The Nut. Highfield was a farming area - a large number of the workers were convicts. Stanley was also the first part of Tasmania to have a telegraph connection to the mainland - the old cable station is another attraction in the Highfield area(and they had just graded the long entry road, so no piccies).

The old convict barracks at Highfield:
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The main house and farm buildings are in much better repair.

The fancy gates that used to lead into Highfield - now hidden behind a hedge:
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Penguin hazard!
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A few of the old buildings in Stanley:
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Big crayfish:
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I thought about staying the night and seeing the sights and maybe spotting a few penguins, but decided to press on to Arthur River for the night - as I climbed on the bike I was sure I heard the barking cry of a penguin from somewhere under one of the buildings.....

A brief stop in Smithton for supplies and then across the back roads through farms and the Tarkine wilderness. The countryside is constantly changing from open farmland to closed in forest, open straight roads then twisting through the trees and across creeks. Not an incredibly challenging piece of road, but enough to keep your attention.

The main national park campground("Peppermint") at Arthur River was my only real choice - the other two campgrounds(also operated by national parks) were quite sandy and I had an interesting time or two getting the bike out after a quick reconnaisance. The showers, toilets and proximity to the main road also meant the Peppermint campground was nearly full of campervans - but I managed to find a reasonably private spot to make camp.
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Unfortunately not far enough out of the way to avoid listening to some unholy combination of "A Bush Christmas" and every Mills and Boon ever written as it echoed across the campground:
"Oh, Bruce, I don't know what we'll do - unless we find some money the bank will take the farm!"
"Don't worry Shazza, I've got it all sorted out! I know I promised you I'd go straight, but I need Mick and the boys to help me steal the thoroughbread back from that mongrel Logan so we can win the bush races"
"Oh dearest, I don't know what I'd do without you..."

Thankfully, the day was getting on so I headed out to "The Edge of the World" to watch the sunset.

It's a pretty rough, rocky and wild coastline:
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Lots of timber has been washed up everywhere(looking back down the river towards the town):
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View across the river mouth:
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Behind me in this photo is.........nothing......until you reach Argentina(this point is further south than the tip of Africa):
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Another attempt to get some form of sunset photo - but the weather front in the background put paid to that:
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After that - off to bed to watch the tent shake and listen to wind gusts roll through the treetops like surf breaking over a beach.
 
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penguineer

just luscious
Hmmmm....seem to have had an issue with images in the last update - I guess these things happen when you're messing with the ride report at 1 in the morning.....

Should be fixed now.

Apologies.

Cheers!
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Hmmmm....seem to have had an issue with images in the last update!


All good now here, no worries.
Did you finish up going to the spit on Green Hills Rd.? (past the old cable station at Stanley)

In the end it gets pretty sandy, depending on the use by 4WD's/ fishermen etc. Great kelp banks out there
 

penguineer

just luscious
Day 9 - A Dismal Swamp, Hell Yeah! Gorge and Rosebery

The guide map for the area says that mobile phones stop working about 10 kilometers outside Smithton, but there is a relatively new mobile phone tower just outside the township of Arthur River and I enjoyed full 3G reception as I watched the front roll over Tasmania on the Bureau of Meteorology website.

By the morning the front shows as a solid line, already halfway across Tasmania - I should be well clear of it now, the sun is shining and the sky is clear.

The weather recently has been atypical - about 5 days of 30C+ temperatures, so the cold showers were actually appreciably warm rather than chilled.

Another sign of the times is a wombat crossing the road - according to one of the park rangers, they don't normally do that, but the wildlife would be more active now as the overnight rain would have softened the greenery after the hot spell.

I managed to get a hurried photo of the wombat running behind a caravan before he hurtled into the bushes.
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Close.

People have wondered if I was heading for the Western Explorer next. The Western Explorer is a road running most of the length of Tasmanias' west coast between Arthur River and Strahan, through some of the wildest and most scenic countryside that Tasmania has on offer. Unfortunately, the Explorer is also known to be a bit of a wild and rugged experience itself and on this trip we have an overloaded road bike, with road tyres, suspension and a wuss of a rider.

The short section of road out to Edge of the World is composed of the same gravel as the Explorer and gave me enough of a taste to confirm my feelings that I wasn't properly prepared for a couple of hundred kilometers of the same in the time I had available.

A view of the mouth of the Arthur River - lots of timber washed up everywhere.
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The permanent population at Arthur River is quite low - a lot of the houses here seem to be small weekenders or beach houses used for the occasional fishing trip.
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Gate post:
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(the other side was Tassie Devils)

The plan now is to backtrack towards Burnie then turn south through Hellyer Gorge, with the idea of reaching the Strahan/Zeehan area.

Halfway to Smithton, in the middle of the forest, I decided to stop for a coffee at the charmingly named Dismal Swamp.

Dismal Swamp is the only Blackwood sinkhole in the world and one of the largest sinkholes in Australia. Blackwood has been logged in the area as the timber is able to be bent and was quite often used for barrel staves. There's a lot of natural history here, covering wildlife, the unique swamp environment and the small crayfish that make it "work" and fossils that have been found. Blackwood seeds can stay viable in the ground for over 100 years.....

Fascinating - but I really wanted a coffee from their cafe.

Forest to the side of the carpark:
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The visitors centre is a unique building........
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Looking at it side-on you can see that it is perched over the sinkhole:
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So far it's the regular eco-inspired building, look at the trees, naturalist-type experience. On the other side of the violding is a cantilever over the sinkhole so you can look across the sinkhole...
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...and down into the forest beneath.
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Attached to the side of the cantilever is the slippery slide that drops you 110m(360 feet) into the bottom of the sinkhole at speeds up to 45kph(about 28mph)
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OK, maybe not so boring.

The boardwalk at the bottom also has a number of quirky art installations scattered amongst the forest. The whole package is pretty highly recommended.

The giftshop walls are a good illustration of the bending properties of Blackwood:
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The corridor to the toilets
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(easier to see the timber without the glare from the lights and stuff stacked against the wall).


Next stop was completely unplanned - Irishtown.

Just turned down the road for a short detour on a whim - it's not a large place, and unsurprisingly it got it's name due to the original settlers of this area.

I had another coffee at the general store/cafe/post office, bought some postcards and was asked if I was "one of those guys doing a motorcycle ride to all these places around Australia" - I'd stumbled across one of the FarRiders FarChallenge locations without realising!
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Irishtown rural fire station
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Back on the road and turn south through Yolla.

Yolla School hedge - someone aspires to topiary.....
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Yolla store - Cafe, general store, servo and post office, all under one roof
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Now the real meat in the sandwich - Hellyer Gorge and the Murchison Highway.

The drop into Hellyer Gorge is a nice tight, windy road that I found to be an absolute pleasure just slot into a "happy gear" and cruise through the forest towards the river using engine braking. Of course - the road seemed well shaded in places and I've heard the moss and frost can be a bit of a challenge in winter - I don't doubt it!

The the bottom it was time for a bit of a break(all those coffees!) and a bit of a walk along the river.....
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Even the grass seems to be a wierd mix of normal grass and moss
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Quite quickly the forest closes in around the path
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The giant "man ferns" become more numerous
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...and start blocking out the sun.....
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The river is quite pretty, and seems hardly responsible for carving out somethig the size of the gorge.....
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Someone got a bit creative in the riverbed......
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The walk is really only a small loop, so once I saw th end of it, I just turned around and walked back the way I came.

The road out of gorge is similar to the way in, twisty on a slope - once up to the top this is followed by a more open, higher-speed road. Great to cruise along, but enough tight corners here and there to keep you honest.

Of course, I had to stop to say "Hi!" to this little fellow:
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Decided to stop in Rosebery as the day was wearing on - well, not really, daylight saving is doing my head in. Due to the latitude it's light until about 7:30pm, which means it feels like a waste when I try to arrange somewhere to stay before 6pm, when various businesses shut. The interrupted sleep from the wind last night is also starting to wear on me....

Just outside Rosebery I decided to make one last detour to Murchison Dam, only about 10km off the highway.

The road winds around the sides of the steep craggy hills, rock on one side and tall pines on the other preclude any real views of the dam or the river, but the forest shrouded peaks on the other side of the valley and further ahead make up for it.
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The dam wall itself is a less photogenic utilitarian rock and concrete construction, but still fairly sizeable - 95metres high and 228 metres long.
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Looking over the lake:
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One of the access portals used to dig a water transfer tunnel from the Murchison dam to the Mackintosh river and dam - essentially combining the water catchment of the two rivers before the water is used for power generation.
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Rosebery is a mining town and very quiet. The caravan park was a bit full of university students on a field trip(junior rockbashers) and a penchant for returning late from the pub, so I ended up staying at the pub(didn't hear the students though)......

The meals at the pub restaurant are miner-sized:
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Have a bit of a look around the town in the morning......
 

penguineer

just luscious
Day 10 -

The town is covered in mist, which doesn't do much to play down the industrial look of the place.

The Top Pub
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Time for a quick look around town.

Miners cottage for sale - features view of the back of the pub, solar powered buddah statue and path lighting.
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The Rosebery real estate market is a little flat at the moment.

The main street - also the Murchison highway.
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I thought it would be a bit busier than when I arrived in town yesterday, but apparently not.

Part of the mining memorial in the main street.
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This device is known as a mucker and is used in underground mining to scoop up rock from the mine face after blasting.

Even the high school doesn't deviate from the mining theme.

Waterwheel:
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Ropeway(overhead bucket line) and mantrips(carriages used to transport miners):
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Time to go - the plan is to do a loop around Zeehan(another mining town) and Strahan before heading back to Queenstown and onwards to Hobart.

Still misty....and cold - down to single digits in places...
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Zeehan is another mining town - much of the town seems to be miners cottages.
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Catholic Church
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Anglican Church
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(notice the big piles of firewood behind the Anglican church and miners cottage?).

Lookout over the coast
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Got to the lookout just in time - after I'd been there about 10 minutes the carpark filled up and it was time to get out of the crowd scene.
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Strahan has had a mixed history - the area was originally settled as a prison(Sarah Island), Strahan was established as a port for access to the west coast mines, later being involved in Huon pine logging. For many years there was no road from the east coast, so the area was reliant on ships making it past Hells Gates at the entrance to Macquarie harbour.

Today Strahan is mainly about tourism, but still has a sizeable fishing fleet.

And leisure boats......
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At least you know you're not buying swampland here!
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Strahan Post office in the old customs building(Strahan used to be an international port).
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The Wilderness Railway is a major attraction. The railway runs between Strahan and Queenstown - originally built for the mines, it now gives the tourists a view of the rugged west coast.

Railway station, turntable and maintenance pit.
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There are faster ways to see the west coast:
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A view from the lookout over Strahan:
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In the park at the bottom of the hill I noticed a small cannon in the park. Initially, I thought that with the maritime history this would have been a time gun so ships in the harbour could set their clocks.
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But the markings looked a little wrong for that theory:
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The gun was actually presented to the town of Strahan by the Bathurst-class corvette HMAS Strahan. The corvettes were some of the lest sexy ships involved in the Pacific war - they rocked, rolled, were uncomfortable and got to do all of the neccessary non-glamourous jobs; convoy escort, minesweeper, transport and survey.

The waterfront area.
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Just out of the town I stopped at another lookout - as far as scenery goes this is about standard for the area, but it's important to show for comparison........
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This couple are spending six weeks riding around Tassie on a tandem......
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A little further down the road the landscape changes dramatically!
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Entering Queenstown
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The Queenstown end of the Wilderness Railway is in a park at the centre of town:
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Next to Miners Siding. Originally the shed held a locomotive - the loco was removed and recommissioned on the Wilderness Railway and the shed now holds a Jumbo drill, used to drill holes for blasting.
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The water feature is a sculpture named "10 Decades of Man and Mining", commemorating 100 years of mining at Queenstown; the sculpture at the end is called "Miners Sunday"
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At the servo two more bikes showed up - they had a certain "look" to them(maybe like I'd seen similar in a movie?).......
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Bea and Helle are riding around the world on a pair of Honda TransAlps:
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They should be at the Horizons Unlimited Travellers meeting at Dayboro this year.

Aside from the damage to the hills, mine tailings were released into the Queen river - the place is a mess......

It's very interesting to look at the website at http://www.queenstowntasmania.com/ very conscious of the damage, captions for nearly every photo taken in the last 30 years mentions how recovered the vegetation is.

Looks like one of the locals looks after the Queenstown page on wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queenstown,_Tasmania - 9 April 2013):
Some concern by local residents in the 1980s, and since, that the low-level succession of plants might affect the stark 'moonscape' appearance of the southern parts of Mount Lyell, and northern Mount Owen. Although there are still large areas incapable of sustaining regrowth due to the acute slopes and lack of soil formation, the rate of vegetation recovery will render the mythologies arising from the appearance as only partial truths in time.

One final look back at the town
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The roads are nice and twisty, but the bare hillsides take the shine off the experience.
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By now it's time to head off towards Hobart for the night.

Once we're away from Queenstown the vegetation makes a comeback and the twisties through the hills continue.

It's quite hot now, but as a consolation the cars around here are quite good at letting me pass.

I didn't think to take photos of the Tallareah hydro-electric power station or the piping system feeding it(despite stopping for a drink and Mars bar at the picnic area right beside it). Shortly after heading off again I spotted the canals that feed water to the power station and decided to stop for a photo.

A good spot presented itself where the canal crossed under the road, so I pulled up at the end of the bridge about 50 metres from a group of grey nomads that had set up camp.
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After taking the first photo I realised that they weren't grey nomads - on second glance it appeared to be a police forensics crew doing a search. I took another photo of the canal and then left before the three guys watching me decided to find out what I was doing and where I might have been the night before last.......

After Tallareah the road straightens out somewhat and we're out of the hills - now it's just a clear run into Hobart. It's been an amazing run the whole way down the west coast....

The area around Hamilton was hit by the recent bushfires. After the lush greenery of the west coast this dry, dusty farmland is a bit of a shock.
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The campervans and other vehicles are the BlazeAid campsite at the showgrounds. BlazeAid is essentially a group of grey nomads(often retired farmers) that volunteer in rural areas that have been affected by fire and flood. A lot of the work they end up doing is repairing fences that have been destroyed.

Looking towards town - very dry.
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After the last few days of empty roads Hobart was a bt of a shock - seriously, does it need a six-lane highway at each end? Something just wanted me to keep going, so I headed through town at what seemed to be their peak hour and kept going, eventually stopping at Kingston Beach.

Looks old-school and right on the beachfront
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Front window looks a bit strange.......
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The rooms are refurbished(the place is getting a complete overhaul), rates are good and there's a busy-looking cafe next door.

Lemon pepper calamari with wasabi dipping sauce....
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One of the staff tells me there is a small penguin colony in the next bay, so after dinner I went for a walk....without success, but the night was clear and calm and relaxing......
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