Charge Of The Midgets_Cape York Posties Pt.1

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Loving it!

Keep looking in...the next day turned out a real cracker :doh::doh::doh:

Midges.

Sue was attacked by them south of Broome, but they passed me by. I guess they're fussy.
Sue was in agony until a traveller suggested dabbing windex on the bites. No cure, but some significant relief!

Thanx mate, will try that tonight. Vicious little pests, they are.
Yo, Goodie was lucky to have me around, she got away lightly...

Frazer is beutiful, honey mooned their, did all that by 4x4 bus. I still remember walking to the Z men (aussie ww2 Commandos) training grounds and having dingos run up to me to see what i was.

Didn't see as many dingoes around as on our last visit in '84, but Waddy Point Camp was completely fenced....so they've got to be around in decent numbers.

you got some damn fine BOTM winning pics there Pete :so
loved the beach & surf stuff....but i'm guessing they were taken in April
so ineligible for the BOTM you know i'm talking about :doh:
really tics me off!! :bang:
were you still on the ride in May?

Yep, ride finished 3.May in Cairns.
More beach/surf to come shortly :D
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Clear skies and a million stars :glu…things are looking good around 4am…but it’s hell trying to get out of the fartbag, there’s pain everywhere.:eek:

It’s even painful trying to scratch the living crap out of all those widgee/midgee/whatever bites…sand-riding's TOUGH!!

The next pang of consciousness is caused by a heavy downpour battering the leaky, old tent….SHIT!! :mad::mad:
By the time we’ve frantically stuffed the sleeping bags and rolled up the self-inflaters to keep at least the sleeping gear dry, it’s all over again…still, we don’t feel like getting started in a hurry.:???:

And then there’s the 3km deep-trench climb out of the camp-site back onto the ridge, another 3k’s of loose stuff to Orchid Beach and the turnoff to the Wathumba Creek Camp on the western side of the island.

Talking to another camper who seems to have spent a few days here, we’re advised that there’s a far easier way to Orchid Beach: “Just run along the beach, it’s about 3k’s…easy”. I went through yesterday morning….no probs.”

High tide then?? (as dead-low tide is ~2pm)

“Don’t know, yesterday morning was fine!”

Yippie…if that saves us 6k’s of hellGREAT!!:thumbs:

Hit the beach…and this guy was right on the money!!:wow:

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One of the locals….fingernail-sized in real life.

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It barely takes a kilometre and the beach shrinks to an ever-narrowing strip.:???:
Sand-cliffs on the left, breakers roaring on the right, a little strip of sand speckled with dead trees in the centre…and I make the first grave mistake of the day by keeping going, dodging the waves on the right when picking the “dry” moment to carve around some of the trees.
Goodie follows about 20m behind, slowly slipping back, hesitating to take a punt on the incoming and receding waves.

Another 200m and there’s a tree ahead, which roots are clinging onto a big lump of sand…a tiny headland poking into the waves, a foot of water around the base even when the surf roll back.:evil::evil:

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That’s it!! Finished!!

And it’s barely dead-high tide yet!!:looney::looney:

Realities start to dawn on me:eek::eek:, looking back I see Goodie stuck on the last clear patch, a clump of dead trees between us, and too afraid to make one more “jump”.

There’s loose sand near the bottom-edge of the cliff, meaning that the last high-tide didn’t make it up there…a “high”-spot!!:woot:

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The little CT protests as I try push and shove the thing into the deep, loose sand and right into the bottom edge of the sand-cliff, as far up the beach as possible!!

Then run back to Goodie to somehow get her bike onto high-ground, there’s just no way to get back to the camp-area, the waves would wash us out a dozen times.:oops::oops:

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Sweat runs, the sun pelts down…and we’re sitting on our 20x5m perch, a foot above the surf-line…. if that.:whistle::whistle:

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Watching the waves, always ready for the “big one”….mentally running through the tide-tables of the IGA-Supermarket in Rainbow Beach (shoulda done that earlier, dummy!!), rationing our first bottle of water.

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I’m cursing myself for getting us into the shit.

ONE rogue wave… and we’re done!

While brooding and mulling about, I’m counting waves…and there’s a certain pattern.
Every now and then, there’s a ‘dry’ spot around that obstacle for a few seconds…
I keep counting.
After an hour and a half of staring down the waves, but staying dry on our little perch, it’s time to take a punt.:looney::looney:

Engine running, gauging distances for acceleration and timing (I HAVE to be on full revs in 2. gear if there’s a soft patch below that tree) I’m off for the “ONE_SHOT_ONLY” run….and things work out perfectly!!!:clap::clap:

With only inches to spare, the next wave hunts me back up the beach into the soft stuff….but on the right side of that tree, where the beach widens up.
You can’t imagine the howl of victory and relief!!


Dodging the waves, I run back as Goodie doesn’t trust herself to copy the moves needed.
Another 10 mins of studying the wave pattern, I find the old rhythm again… and the V6-RR does a clean run across the goal-line.

100s of vehicles have been destroyed on Fraser over the years, the postie’s time wasn’t up….yet!:oops::oops:

Celebrations all round, the water-bottle does the rounds….we BEAT the sucker!!

The rest is a piece of cake, dodging a few more waves…the beach widens and there’s the climb into the sand hills up to Orchid Beach Resort.
The high-flying emotions make relatively short work out of the loose uphill section; the tracks in Orchid Beach have been stabilized with thick timber-slats as a base to the loose stuff on top…bumpy, but easy riding.

Mistake No.2….with the euphoria I forget about our drained water-reserves, something to bite us in the arse lateron.

And Orchid Beach turns silent at the sight of the 2 little critters...
 

art_tas

Getting the hang of it
MIDGES, Pete. They're called Midges!!

Well... the non-biting ones didn't really worry us, BUT the females of the biting ones, fell instantly for Pete! He's got the battle (scratch) scars to prove it! Luckily, I've been ignored (by the litttle suckers) - and I didn't complain.

Hey Goodie yet another example of Pete attracting the blood sucking females??? What happens when he does this in Slovenia??? hee hee:woot::bees:
 

goodie

...
Hey Goodie yet another example of Pete attracting the blood sucking females??? What happens when he does this in Slovenia??? hee hee:woot::bees:
At least, WE are protected then :lol: (I hope)
But I think, that the vampires (you are referring to them, right?) live... :wink: in Romania.
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
16.5k’s across the neck of the island ahead of us:eek::eek:… to Wathumba.

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It’s back into the deep, loose stuff…some parts are as bad or worse than yesterday afternoon, the stuff amongst the trees is a bit firmer…sometimes.

We start to dread any open, sunny patch….and the sun IS pelting down.

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In no time we’re laying in the sand beside the track again, gasping for air.
Bugger the safety gear and protectors… the jackets will stay off from here on.

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Not that I fared any better :bs

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…and some of the climbs and drops take EVERYTHING out of “men and machine”

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Along the last few k’s to the west-coast, our earlier euphoria has evaporated and we’re an hour and a half late for this run….1.5hrs of sun that has dried out the sand and makes it even deeper.... 1.5hrs loss against the dead-low tide for the beach run to come, 1.5hrs late on the time available to catch the 4pm barge across to Hervey Bay….:???::???:

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I run ahead a little and pull into the camp area at Wathumba.
The milling crowd of fishermen and “beachbums” falls silent… again::p:p

“What the hell are YOU doing here?? We saw you on the hardpack on the east-side yesterday…did you just take the posties across from Orchid?:rolleyes:
Shit, you’re keen, mate…can you gimme a hand getting the canoe off the roofrack?”

Christ, I feel like collapsing but yeah…heave-ho!:thumbs:

Strange, Goodie hasn’t come yet….:evil:
A few minutes later I get that sinking feeling in the guts…only saw her about 1k back??
Knees shaking, head spinning, I let the postie fly for all it’s worth… and there she is, standing next to the bike! Standing, at least!:woot:

“No idea, there was this horrible screeching noise and she wouldn’t really go anymore….”
It’s in neutral and I can’t even push the bike…????
The front end is somehow locked up….a second later it dawns:
Sand in the brake-drums !!
Loosening off the brakes at both ends, we’re mobile again…

“Mate, you look rooted….wanna beer?”
This guy’s got ICE-COLD beer in the back of his Landcruiser!!!“Wouldn't take my own Cruiser over here, this one’s rented”

…yep, the place is like THAT !!


It’s heaven here…the shade of the tree-canopy and ice-cold beer.
Out there is the weird and somewhat intimidating Wathumba-“foreshore”….a labyrinth of creeks, puddles, mangroves and dried-out mudflats.

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“You wanna go f’ing WHERE??? There’s NO WAY you can get onto the beach from here and there hasn’t been a 4WD along that beach for weeks…make that months!!
You can’t get across Wathumba Creek…no way!
There are welts of seaweed buried just under the surface all along down to Moon point and if you pelt into one of those, you’ll need a tow at best….at worst, the next tide will finish the job….forget it!! Go back to Orchid…”

We look at each other….a long look…
Go back to Orchid? Then the Indian Head Bypass? Jeezaz Christ….
The rest would be easy though…

This side is only 40k’s to Moon Point…if we make it across the creek, if we find the beach at all, looking at all the flats and mangroves….

We’ll try for the creek first, then see what it looks like from there….
….and off we wobble through some rapidly changing sand, mud, hardpack, mud again, skirting mangroves and bigger puddles….it’s hot out here.

The 4WDs and fishermen disappear from the mirrors, there are some old tracks sloping into a wider creek…that’s gotta be Wathumba Creek. The opposite sand-bank climbs near-vertical for about 5m straight out of the creek, no surprise they can’t get a 4WD across.
It’s quick-running water, too…that’ll be quite a drag when crossing….and the sandy bottom will make anything sink when standing still in the water.

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The only way is to push the bike in first gear and on the throttle, move quickly through the water and go into a diagonal traverse up the other side, with the bike hopefully digging it’s own way up the side of the bank as I’m slip-sliding my own track half-above it….

We go in, the angle is wrong, I’m at 90deg to the waterflow, the wave is building quickly, I forgot to pull the choke before going in and the carb and engine are under water, cooling rapidly, the bike stalls ¾ way through !!!

Goodie rushes in for the push and somehow I get the engine running again for the traversing climb….DONE!!
Learning from the mistakes, the V6-RR goes in on an angle, choke in….and just cruises through and up the bank on the other side.

DONE!!! :clap::clap:

Mistake No 3 and 4:
Shoulda bludged more of that beer….and….never count your chickens yaddayadda…

Right across that sand-hill, mangroves narrow the sloping track dramatically….with a BIG, rotten- stinking mud-hole at the bottom.
To make it short…the first bike takes heaps of effort, we get stuck, the mud is a good ½ meter deep and of the gooey-sucking variety….and Gosh, it REEKS!!
Goodie slips while trying to push and falls backwards into the disgusting slop.

Trying to pull her boots back out of the stuff, she nearly gives up and abandons them, truly hard work…. without gaining an inch.

Again, learning from the first one, the 2. is a piece of cake….and this time we have more speechless fishermen and their kids as spectators.
A bit more loose stuff and we’re ON THE BEACH!!

There ya go….impossible, my arse!!

Now for the rest of it, down the western shores to Moon Point…

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We’re STUFFED…and exhilarated by having come that far…but it’s cost time.
Any big obstacles like that and things will get very tight, the barge still leaves at 4pm.
With dead-low tide and some luck we should be able to make it….




Virgin beaches



….not even footprints:glu:glu:glu:glu
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
With T-shirts flapping and staying right at the water’s edge, the going is good.:glu:glu
Remembering those “hidden welts of seaweed” we start off slowly… we should be ok that close to the water, aye?:???:

It’s one of best runs of our lives….the remoteness and solitude, the virgin sand, blue-green breakers on the right, sandhills and bush on the left, not even traces of a single soul anywhere…we might as well be on the moon.

One of those rare moments in life!!!

As exciting as what the east-side was yesterday….THIS BEATS THE PANTS OFF IT!!!:clap:

The exhaustion is forgotten; exhilaration and outright jubilation take over. Free as a bird…it’s just too easy….

It doesn’t long for things to turn:mad:.
Flying as high as kite, I bomb into one of the creek-crossings, stupid as before, at right angles to the flow.
Didn’t realize that the creek curved across the beach, therefore the water is deeper and quicker on the outside of the bend….and the creek’s bloody wide, too….

The water is like glass and ~4” deep….bahhh, that’s nothing.:whistle:
Still in 2., I let it rip, things get softer and slower, into 1. then.... and keep it howling.
It’s getting deeper, the bike slowly loosing the speed-fight and with the opposite bank only 5feet away, I’m getting ready to rip up the front, weight back as far as possible, nearly sitting on the packs.
The front-end just dives away from me, hitting one of those soft patches where the flow has deposited brown sediment on the bright-white sand….and into the plonk we go!!

I’m still standing (and rapidly sinking into the sucking sand), but the midget’s on its side, burbling away until a big gulp of water kills the engine…only the tip of the exhaust remains in fresh air.

The battle to get the bike out of the sucking sand gets frantic….Goodie comes to the rescue (and finds a shallower crossing closer to the surf for her own crossing).:oops::oops:

Drying out…

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Taking a break after 100 unsuccessful kicks…:rolleyes:

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…..while it finally hits home, how remote the beach really is.

“there haven’t been 4WD’s down THAT beach for weeks…make that months”
There are NO settlements of ANY KIND along this side of the island (apart from Kingfisher Resort far down the coast), no beach-shacks, no camping-areas, no shop/fuel or whatever.

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Things drag on…but she finally fires up again

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It doesn’t take long to reach km40 on the odo…and that’s where Moon Point should be, the spot where the barge to Hervey Bay lands.

In the back of my mind is a nagging suspicion that the engine has taken on too much water and some of it has run down it’s bowels…

Km40…and there’s NOTHING there…just the beach, the bush on the left, the surf on the right.
No signs, no marker, no broomstick stuck-in-the-sand….not a single track in the sand, no people, no footprints, no vehicle, not even seagulls bickering about “human leftovers” …

There’s a bit of a “dark hole” in the vegetation to the left, perhaps a track comes out from the centre of the island??
Who knows….let’s go searching for the ferry-landing, it’s nearly 3pm already.

We keep going….

Km43….coming around the spit, the beach caves into a bay on the left, mangrove studded and shallow. Straight ahead is another spit of bright sand… in between a kilometre of mudflats.
No ferry-landing point here, must be around the next spit then…
Let’s try to shortcut through the mudflats, the mangroves along the curving beach to the left look too dense for reasonably quick going.

The black mud changes consistency constantly, but keeping around the 30kmh the going is ok….deepish, but ok. Onto the pegs then to keep up the speed and ride out the dips and troughs and puddles of the flats…
Getting to the spit and the familiar pattern of bush, beach, and surf, is a relief.

Peek around the corner and there are vast expanses of mudflats ahead, the beach-line curves deeply to the left… in the distance another head-land-type of spit, sand missing, but full of trees. About 4km across to that spit, the coastline further south doesn’t seem to have any beach at all but dense vegetation down to the mudflats.

This doesn’t look right!!
But there seems to be a channel of water cutting through the mudflats, perhaps the ferry runs up that channel to a landing spot in the mangroves?

There’s another creek to cross, the bottom is a rugged mix of firm-ish mud and washed-down sand…but it’s fairly shallow.

We run across the 2. lot of mudflats, hordes of soldier crabs fleeing in front of us, like a slow-moving carpet-rug. Sorry we can’t let go of the throttle, guys….and there’s soooo many of you….:(:(
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
The “channel” ahead proves to be way too narrow for a barge carrying vehicles :???::???::eek:….and slowly but surely my gut’s knotting up.:(
This just doesn’t look and feel right…. AT ALL!!!

We’re too far south, Km47 on the odo and should’ve come past the ferry-landing a while ago:evil:….apart from that we’re in restricted “no vehicle access” territory…no surprise when looking around!:wow::wow:

What’s worse, we’re also nearly 2 hrs. past dead-low tide and the water is coming back in….on those flat, it’s going to RUSH in!!

The dread mounts as we turn around, the mudflats already markedly narrower than before….time to high-tail it out of here, and damn quick at that!!!

The tide DOES come in…what used to be dark mudflats with a sprinkling of silver-shimmering puddles is turning rapidly into the exact opposite…and the water seems to be just rising out of the ground.:eek::eek:

Desperation sets in…we only have 2 muesli bars and a cup full of water left in the last water-bottle, there’s no friggin ferry to be seen anywhere across the whole bay and we might well get caught out by the tide, the sandy shore the same distance away as the last sand-spit.
If there ever was a ferry around here, it’ll be leaving in under 30 mins!

The going isn’t to bad yet, but the mud softer, deeper:(….sucking the tyres in, and there are bigger puddles everywhere. It’s a huge, vicious slalom-course now…

Coming back to the last creek-crossing, the freshwater still flows as quickly as before, but it’s a lot higher now.:eek:

[Sorry for no pics in this section…we were sort of busy]

Speed HAS to be up even on entry; otherwise the wet mud will suck us into the ground…not 5 foot across and the front-end just disappears into the murky ground…we go diving in a soft patch of sandy water.

Landing arse first I’m sinking quickly, the fast-flowing water washing out the sand/ muck below me.
Same to the bike that lays on top of me.

THE CAMERA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek:

Keeping it dangling around the neck for quick-use, the bag has taken a dunk….now in my left hand holding it above water, while trying to push the bike up with the other hand… but only feeling myself sinking deeper into the creek-bed with the effort.:doh::doh:
Motor stalls…and the quiet is sudden and full of dread.
She’s drowned….AGAIN!!

GOOODIEEEE!!!!!

The few seconds it takes her to park the RR seem like hours…

Now we’re even deeper in the shit, loosing precious minutes to just get things out of the creek, tearing the little CT out of the claws of the sand, water everywhere, it’s running out of the packs and everywhere else.

We both push Goodies bike across to prevent a 2. bike drowning….
There is just no time left to drain carb and airbox, pull the sparkpklug or stand her on the backwheel to get the water out of the exhaust…reality hits with a mighty whack.

WE’RE DONE!!!

We’re exhausted by the physical efforts of the last few hours, no way in hell to push a fully-laden postie the 500m to the sandy spit through those mudflats, it’s just getting too soft.

Goodie might just make it, I’ll try to carry the pack and leave the bike to the tides.
If the going gets too hard with 20odd kg on my back, I’ll abandon the gear as well and run. Or swim, whatever….

In the far distance is the white outline of a ferry….but pointing south-east, we’re north east!!
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
One more kick….just one more kick…..:(:(

….AND THE LITTLE HONDA SPLUTTERS AND FARTS BACK TO LIFE !!!!!!!!!

In total disbelief we press on…. stalling, catching, coughing and jerking….but GOING!!!

Every tiny dip into one of those endless puddles and she cuts out, sucking a small dash of water out of the airbox into the carb…

But starting again after a few kicks…We make it onto the spit…look back and THE FERRY HAS TURNED NORTH NOW, steaming towards us along the island’s shores.

It’s a hard choice to either follow the safety of the coastline, the loose sand and mangroves…or run the 1k across the smaller mudflats, straight to the next spit, which should be Moon Point and the ferry-landing…or somewhere around there.

Despair still bites deep, but resignation is fading….if the bike dies across the flats, at least I can run for the spit, possibly catch the ferry and get off the island for the safety of Hervey Bay.

The little CT and I don’t know it yet…but she’s fatally wounded, water in the crankcases and engine-bearings, water everywhere….but she keeps going, tough as nails and giving more than she’s gotWAY MORE!!

Tears of hope turn into rivers of relief, dripping off the chinbar of the helmet as we hit the safety of the sandy spit and hardpack-sand again.

A fishing boat lies close offshore:
“Moon Point…FERRY????”
He point up the beach a bit:
“Where the buses are!!!”
Buses???? BUSES????????????????

Rounding the view-obscuring spit

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We can’t believe we’re here :glu:glu:glu

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Folks are milling around us, the drivers and tourguides just shake their heads.
“Posties…HERE!! F’ing POSTIES ...I don’t believe it!!!”

Neither do we....

We’re soaked to the waist, sand plastered everywhere, sand grinding away in the jocks, the Goretex road-boots doing what they’re supposed to do: Not leaking ANY water….
...leaking out in this case.:so

The tourguides offer drinks and nibblies as the ferry pulls in….it’s all too much, I need 5min me-time, shutting out the tourist's ahhh/ohhhh babble around me….

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The barge leaves late and the afternoon darkens as the boat makes it’s hook around the sandbank before crossing into Harvey Bay, the choppy half-meter swell washing over the decks.


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Again the little CT coughs into life for the 100m off the jetty to the Caravan Park, which thankfully has a big caravan with Alum-annex on offer…. a safe-haven of grand proportions to us right now.
The take-away closes at 7.30 and being a few mins late we’re stuck with the left-overs.

Who cares, it’s a full belly. Beats a muesli bar and a dribble of water anytime!!

71k's....~9hrs



Oblivion comes at 8.30….
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
The bodies ask their toll…and we sleep in!

….till 5.30am:so

The tumultuous emotions of yesterday still haven’t settled, we somehow can’t believe that we’re here, that the sleeping bags stayed dry in the dunk-in-the-creek, that even the camera bag was dry inside and the Canon seems to work faultlessly.

Turning over: “Mornin’, how ya feelin’?”
“SORE…top to bottom and right to left!”
“Still love me?”
“Only, if you go for another run through the mudflats with me…”

That’s my girl….even tougher than the little CT’s!!:thumbs::thumbs:

The laughter drives us out of the sleeping bags…



“Whadda you laughing about??!!”…. early visitor

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No more fidgeting…the bikes need a clean up and check-over.

While Goodie checks out the laundry for a couple of loads of sand-crusted gear, I find a hose with enough pressure to give both bikes a good wash-down.
There’s sand absolutely EVERYWHERE!!

First the RR…. she’s fine all-round after a quick 10min check-and-fiddle…. tighten up those brakes again, too. There’s even sand in the steering lock…key only goes in halfway.
Then the dreaded moment:

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ARGHHH!!! SHIIIT!!!

“Oi….you lost one of your gloves in the mudflats yesterday….want me to go and look?”:bees::bees:

More ARGHHHH!!! Those things were nearly brandnew...

Goodie’s off getting a litre of fresh oil, then digs through the recycle bins for empty bottles and something to use as a drainer-tray. A 5liter ice-cream tub is perfect…. as is the discarded roll of dunny-paper.
(they use those “20kilometer-rolls" here and chuck out anything that might only last another half-day or so).

What should be 1liter of engine oil looks like 2.5liters of Berger’s Fence-Masta Extra-Thick…it’s all just grey sludge.

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And so begins a day of oilchanges….8 of them!! with very short stints of careful riding to warm up the latest gunk before another lot goes in.:wow:

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Careful to not spill a drop, the dunny paper does a great job… as do the 2 caravans next to each other to camouflage the grease-monkeying in between.

The rest is drying out....

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…while Goodie does a few shots around the place, in between the laundry- and-oil-runs.

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Oil-change No.7 produces clear oil after the warm-up…. one more to make sure.

Still…~40k’s of desperado-dashes across the mudflats with that custard in the engine…I just can’t shake some bad vibes…:mad::mad:

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You just gotta LOVE that brown, bubbly stuff :so:so

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farawayman

Long Timer
What a good read well done mate :clap::clap::clap:

But I cant help thinking this like bringing a butter knife to a gun fight :wow:

especially when you have a perfectly good shottie in the shed








:bees::bees:
 
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