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Old 03-07-2015, 02:18 PM   #11
glitch
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Default Ignition lock and coded key bypass_1

EWS errors.... duplicate/ replacement keys.... and how to "save the bacon" after busting the RF-antenna finishing with a "dead" bike.

Issues: Another "item of bother"...the EWS-error as a result of broken wires/ contacts to the ignition lock antenna after connecting or modding the electrics in the headlight shell area....or after even small crashes which involve the headlight area.

Also: Factory key can NOT be reproduced and aftermarket keys are are not chip-ed, therefore can't be coded to the bike.



Having peeled the plastic-cap off the ignition lock, there's another cap-like cover around the top, which seems to be a lot harder/ impossible to pry off (at least, with the ignition lock still in its usual place)


This 2. cap appears to be the code-pickup antenna, receiving the code from the chip in the OEM-key and transferring it to a transponder/ reader/ verifier, which in return passes the "All clear" (or NOT!!) to the ECU....the reason for the 1 second delay between hitting the starter button and the starter motor actually cranking, methinks.


The antenna wire leads into the headlight-shell and is pretty stiff and rigid....not your standard cable. The wire is also held by a tiny cable-clip (horse-shoe-type) in the ignition lock itself, most likely to protect those rigid/brittle connections from bending and flexing/ vibration.









Playing around the headlight shell or removing it for mods or after a decent stack/ front-damage can easily lead to broken wires of the pickup-antenna which means an instantly "dead" bike.


The stiff antenna wire in the head shell....cable-tied to the front alum brace.







A good search on the Zadi Q933 series of locks didn't bring up much, but I'm sort of familiar with the Honda HISS system and the Suzuki equivalents, the same principles will apply here.

The basic idea is to unplug the Husky antenna and leave it in place with the rigid cable untied for room-of-movement....using a separate antenna and an original key to have permanent "code-verification"...and use a $5 copy to actually do the job of starting/ locking etc the bike.



The Silca blank...






Ebay provided a $12 Honda CB400 HISS ring-antenna for playing around with....in the mail.



I couldn't find the ignition lock diagram in the parts pdf and all documentation on the net indicated that a complete, new, ignition lock incl. antenna ring would be needed, no separate antenna available. With a new ignition lock+antenna unit, new keys are required....and you're now royally rooted! The keys have to be coded with the dash and ECU by an online MOSS session at a dealer that actually has a MOSS system hookup with Munich/ Germany.....and since Husky was sold to KTM/ Austria, who run a different system,there is no MOSS anymore.... it's all over, Red Rover.
The bike's for the bin!
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:18 PM   #12
glitch
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Default Ignition lock and coded key bypass_2

Cannibalizing a Honda CB400 HISS antenna ring, details here:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ign...-bypass.43485/








Grinding away the insulation, it shows the 2 connectors of the actual RF-antenna tying into the PCB of the decoder unit.
On the Husky the decoder is part of the ECU, only the antenna part with the 2 connector-lugs is needed to solder a couple of wires to.







...and rigging it into the Husky connector just above the headlight cross-bar










GOTCHA BASTARD!! ..... OEM key in the Honda antenna and starting the bike with an un-chipped/ un-coded $5 key.









Found some connectors on Ebay which EXACTLY match the connectors used on the bike (check for SUPERSEAL-connectors on Ebay).

The OEM plug (of the OEM antenna) "bagged" and sealed , new extension prepped and plugged in.

There aren't too many places on the bike where the Honda antenna with a key "inserted" can go and be near dust/water/vibration- free to never cause trouble.

Picked a spot in the airbox, which has some protected space now that the PodMod was done.






Fabbing a little alum-bracket to sit neatly in the airbox to prevent any possible damage to either antenna ring/ elec. contacts or the key itself.





The little rubber-foot sits on the floor of the air-box.






Also, the key has to be removable for servicing/ removal of the air filter. The cable is routed to just outside the airbox, another connector showing just along the side of the box to the left of the key.

This way the entire airbox can be removed from the bike for servicing without the need to cut cables.













Edit: Info as to the OEM Husky chipped used.

The actual chip appears to be a "Texas Crypto, 6E-80 TX-MA"
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:19 PM   #13
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Default Engine Oil drain tube fix

Issue: On the TR, engine oil has to be drained from at least 2 points, the main one being a metal inline block with drain-screw in the return-hose below the oil-tank at the steering head. Loosening the drain-plug results in the left side of the engine getting bathed in hot engine oil.

This fix is a permanent maintenance fix to drain the oil via an installed piece of rubber tube with a stop-plug at the bottom end. The hose is long enough (and tied to the crashbars) for the oil to drain straight into a waste-container.



Shown: Engine oil-drain and Pod -filter oil drain (just disregard the cable, which leads to a powersocket installed in the fold of the left side-panel.)










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Old 03-07-2015, 02:19 PM   #14
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Default Jamming radiator cap / bike running hot

Issue:
The factory radiator cap has shown to be near impossible to get off/on.


Replacement Radiator Cap (nearest fit and 1.1kg ) is a
Tridon CB 16110 .

I was looking for a local product specifically, available all over AUS and generic, if possible.
The above item has shown to work and fit perfectly

Goes on like a greased pig's tail, too...no more knotting up fingers to do/ undo the bastard OEM-thing.

Bought at: Bursons Auto Parts, $6.50 (trade)
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:19 PM   #15
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Default Foldable tip rear BRAKE!! lever

While Touratech offers foldable-tip versions of the gearlever, there's nothing around for the other side....a foldable-tip brake lever.



Recently stumbled over this:


http://www.warp9racing.com/billet_brake_pedals.html


Scroll down the page and find the replacement tips for their levers @ $25 each.

And with a little metalwork, they fit just about ANY brake lever out there.
Email them first as for availability/ colours!!


Anodized alum with stainless steel, screw-in spikes for grip.

Pivot/spring and other hardware = stainless.


Nice bling, too :thumbsup:






After removing the profile that clips into their proprietary levers....the first bit of the metalwork mentioned above.







A black one mounted to the Husky after a slight re-shape of the lever profile itself (the other bit of the metalwork).


A couple of neat S/S bolts to bolt it up...




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